In the 8th century, Umayyad caliphs built a band of desert palaces and hunting lodges east of Amman as retreats and provincial centres. Their decorative art — frescoes at Quseir Amra, stone carving at Mshatta — is unexpectedly refined.
The sites stand in rolling gravel plains that seem untouched by time. They reward patience. Travellers who hire car & driver in Jordan spend a quiet day east of the capital, and full package tours to Jordan add them to a cultural loop.
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